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How to Make a Better Garden Using Trashes – Many people think that to have a beautiful garden you will need to start from the main layout. After that, you will need to buy a lot of new things to make it better. If you are planning on doing that kind of remodeling for your garden, you will need a lot of money. However, what about those who do not have a lot of money? That will be a problem. If you are thinking about the best ways to get a beautiful garden, you might want to think about using some of those trashes that you have in your house. Yes, these ideas from the recycled things will be a good idea to try.
For the start, you can try to make the flowerpot from the used tire. This is something quite common because you can easily find a lot of used tires sold at the flea market. As an addition, the price of the used tire is very cheap. You can use some used tire from your bike if you want to make a bigger flowerpot. There are a lot of ideas that you can find on the internet. The second idea is to make a bathing for birds. Some of you might have seen some bathing for the birds on the backyard. This is a good idea to try because you only need a used round plate with a nice water capacity. After that, make a stand using strong wooden stick. The last but not least, put that used plate on the top of the stick and the birds will start bathing there.
The next idea to try is the hanging bottle. This is a great idea to try if you have some tall fence on the backyard. That is because you only need some bottles make a large hole on that bottle and it is ready to go. Yes, you need to put some soils there and the bottles are ready to be your pot for your small plants. For your information, coloring those bottles before you hang them can be a good idea to try. If you want, you can find a lot of similar ideas on the internet. You need to learn some things from the internet to be your personal reference. Always take advantage of existing land as we have to take advantage of opportunities that exist when playing gambling on https://multibet88.online to reap more profits. This way, you will be able to have the nice looking garden even though you are using the trashes you have in your house.
The Begonia is one of the most beautiful plants used as either an indoor or outdoor source of greenery depending on where in the world the owner lives. Caring for a Begonia begins with making sure it is planted, pruned, fed and watered correctly over the course of its lifetime. To begin the process of understanding how to care properly for a Begonia we must assemble the correct equipment to make sure we can care successfully for the plants, this means fertilizer, a saucer, gravel and water must all be readily available when looking at how best to care for a Begonia.
Once all the necessary equipment has been assembled we must take a look at how healthy the plant is at the current time. One simple to avoid problem with the Begonia is the rotting of organic material still attached to the plant, which is a problem occurring throughout the life of the plant as new stems and material grows. Simply remove the dead or dying leaves at their junction with the main stem of the plant, this means that the entire dead and dying stem is removed to avoid pieces of the plant rotting as the plant continues to grow.
Once the Begonia is cleared of any rotting or damaged organic material it must then be fed to make sure it grows successfully and healthily over the coming months. A good option are fertilizer pellets that offer a time release option, usually for between three and six months. In colder climates, the begonia is usually a house plant and therefore only requires fertilizer for the duration of the summer, which means feeding times should be limited to periods when food is required. Making sure the fertilizer is administered in the correct amount is important, with every package of fertilizer including instructions on how much to feed based on the diameter of the plant pot.
Many people who play poker online become worried by the way they should water a Begonia, with the correct amount of water administered being more than any plant owner may imagine. The root ball of the Begonia should be thoroughly watered, which means almost the entire pot of soil holding the Begonia should be damp when the water is administered. Adding small amounts of water at regular intervals is not always a good idea as only the top layer of soil will then be damp and the root ball will be damaged as it dries out.
Room temperature water should always be used to avoid shocking the plant, with cold water left in a watering can for several hours before administering.
Once the excess water has drained through the pot, the Begonia can be placed on a saucer and the next step in maintaining the plant can begin. Water pressing against the leaves of the Begonia will often cause damage to the plant, which can be avoided by a layer of small stones or gravel being added to the surface of the soil around the plant to provide some form of protection.
If you want to get a jump on summer growing, don’t wait until growing season to start your Frost-Leavesseeds. Each year nature plays games with gardeners. Warm weather rolls in, gardeners get Spring fever, and the urge to start vegetables becomes overwhelming. Growers stake out the garden, sprinkle some seeds into rows, water it with love, and in about a week and a half, little sprouts emerge. Just about the time the true leaves open in full splendor, a cold snap hits and frost kills 90% of the garden.
But you know what happens when you wait to plant? Frost never comes. That’s because Jack Frost is hiding behind the tree and snickering at your gardening efforts. He won’t strike until he sees you smiling at your new plants.
That leaves you with two choices. Wait until the temperatures get too hot for Jack to hang around, or allow him to be humored with your gardening agony. But if you wait, then it will be another month or two before the fruits of your labor can be picked from the garden.
Fear not, little gardener. There is a third option. Plant indoors and snicker at Jack. Many seeds can be started up to 8 weeks early and be ready for the garden when Jack Frost heads north for the summer. Just figure out what the latest chance of frost is for your region, and count back 60 days. That’s when you plant your indoor seedlings. I’ll even save you a little time by giving you a handy chart.
|USDA Hardiness Zone||Approximate Last Chance for Frost||Date to Start Seeds|
|Zone 11||Frost? What’s that?||Whenever you get the hankering|
This chart doesn’t take into account the freak cold snaps that sneak a frost late into spring. Like the oddities found in my area. The official latest frost on record is April 25th, and that happened in 1910. However, they apparently don’t take my property into account when record keeping. I’ve lived at my current location for ten years, and twice I have had frost kill my garden in May. One as late as the third week of May.
Two years ago, I planted my garden on May 1st. Three weeks later, everything was doing nicely, but a cold snap came in. The official temperature was 39 degrees. No big deal. Cold, but plants can survive that temp. But in the pasture behind my house, I saw frost. Sure enough, when I walked to the back of the yard, tiny ice crystals outlined the leaves of all my plants. Two days later, I had nothing but dead plant corpses.
The odd part is that I have two growing areas. The one at the back of the yard was wiped out. The garden to the side of my house was untouched. I could see the frost line in the grass. A mere 50 or 60 feet was the difference between life and death.
So, if you are in a strange area like me, waiting another two weeks after the last possible frost date might be a better option. Worry not, little sprout. When Jack has to head north, you will still get the last laugh when you take your two-month old plants and place them in the garden.
If your garden heavily features perennials, or plants that live for two or more years, you might have heard that it is advantageous to periodically divide them. This guide is here to help go over what dividing perennials means, the best reasons to do it, the best time to do it, and of course give some practical advice on how to do it. For those who are curious about what exactly dividing means, it is relatively self explanatory. Dividing perennials means digging and replanting individual species of plants in other parts of your garden or in another garden entirely.
There are many reasons why dividing is a good a strategy for perennial plants. One reason is overall health: many species of perennials grow in a way that causes clumping. If these clumps don’t go untreated they can actually start to die out and leave unsightly holes in your garden.
Another benefit is that less crowded plants are more likely to bloom bigger prettier flowers.
Finally, for the more aggressive varieties of perennials, dividing can prevent them from encroaching on their neighbors and will keep your garden looking clean and well delineated. Of course, another great side benefit is that dividing will yield extra plants for either expanding your garden or you can even give away or sell your surplus.
The process of division can be a stressful one for the plants involved, so it is best to try and do big dividing projects in the milder seasons. When the soil is cool and moist, like in the spring or autumn months, your plants will better be able to recover from the shock of being dug up and transplanted. However, it is possible to divide them as agen sbobet member do in other seasons like summer or winter; it is important to make sure they get any extra care they might need like additional water, or extra heat though.
When looking at the plants, you will know they are ready for division when they are big enough that you can make several distinct ‘clumps’ out of them. Most perennials are ready to divide every three to four years, but do some research on the species in your garden to see if you have any that need more or less frequent dividing.
Some species, such as lavender, can actually be left alone altogether.
Dividing your perennials is predominantly a three step process. Step one is to prepare both the area you are going to dig and transplant to by watering the soil in both places. Step two is to dig up the plants to be divided by selecting a clump and inserting the shovel around the perimeter to carefully isolate the roots and dig underneath them. Now lift underneath the root clump to lever the plant out. Finally, you are going to separate the tops of the clump you’ve uprooted and replant in the new area as quickly as possible so the roots remain moist and healthy.
Gardening gets you outside, keeps you active, and produces colorful and tasty rewards for your efforts. Even people who have a physical impairment can enjoy gardening with the right tools. The types of tools used depend on the needs of the gardener. With the right tools, anyone can reap the benefits of gardening.
The handles of gardening tools such as hoes, hand pruners or trowels for people with impairments should be brightly colored and have good gripping surfaces and thick handles. Bright colors allow a gardener with limited vision to easily spot and grab the handle of a tool instead of the working end. The material used around the handle should allow for a good grip, no matter how tightly your hand is holding the tool.
Large or specially shaped handles let gardeners with arthritis comfortably hold and use the tools.
Work gloves, along with providing hand protection, can help people with a loss of grip strength to hold things better. Nitrile-covered gloves designed for gardening are thin and lightweight, and the material prevents objects from slipping out of your hands. Use thicker gloves coated in nitrile when doing heavy garden work, such as weeding or pruning, that may rip thinner gloves.
Kneeling to reach plants in beds is a part of gardening for anyone, not just the impaired, especially when the garden does not include raised beds. People with impairments that require them to get closer to the plants frequently kneel. This group includes gardeners with visual impairments, who must kneel down so that they can feel their way around the garden bed as they work. Kneeling for extended periods of time without knee protection is painful for anyone, and the longer you stay in a kneeling position, the more likely you feel pain in the knees. Knee pads or a padded kneeling stool can prevent knee pain resulting from gardening. Protecting the knees can also help gardeners with arthritic knees to work with less pain. Even people without impairments find it more comfortable to use padding under their knees when gardening.
Your wheelbarrow should be easy to push, steer and leave standing if you have physical impairments. An even number of wheels on a wheelbarrow makes it easier to move and less likely to tip.
The handle should be padded, and brightly colored for visibility.
Carrying all the tools you need in a pouch around your waist makes gardening easier. The pouch should have easy-to-access pockets that can hold the tools you use most often. You can carry tools too large for the pockets in a bucket with ergonomically designed handles for easy gripping. The easily gripped handles reduce the chances of dropping a bucket full of garden tools.
Compost is the best food you can give to the soil in your organic garden! Imagine a diet of just plain water. Or, how about a diet of water and tasteless nutritional powder? Yuck! It would not leave you satisfied, healthy, or full. A diet like that doesn’t work for soil, either. The only thing that truly feeds and satisfies the soil is more soil – in the form of compost.
Compost is recreating what nature does when people aren’t around to harvest and clean up…
When leaves fall in the forest or grasses die back in the prairie, they act as mulch; then, as they decompose, they become rich, dark, fluffy soil. Rich, dark, fluffy soil is every gardener’s dream. It is easy to plant in and plants thrive in it.
Making compost is probably the single most important thing you can do for your organic garden. The success of your garden depends on your soil. The health of your soil depends on the compost you give it. Compost makes the soil loose, porous and increases the amount of water it can hold. By adding compost to your soil, you won’t need to water your plants as often. You could vacation for a week or so without worrying that you’ll come back to a baked garden.
Compost also releases nutrients slowly into the soil, giving plants a steady, balanced diet to keep them growing strong. In spring, when plants are small, compost doles out nutrients slowly. Later, as the soil warms up and plant growth accelerates, nutrients are released at a faster rate. This is because the soil microorganisms that release the nutrients from compost work harder as the temperature rises.
As compost breaks down into humus, it improves the soil’s ability to store nutrients. So if you amend your soil regularly with compost, plant nutrients can build up over time to the point that the soil needs little fertilizer of any kind for several years.
Depending on what ingredients went into the compost, a given batch can be high or low in certain elements. The greater the variety of materials you use to make your compost, the greater the variety of nutrients it will contain.
That includes both the major plant nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium) and the micronutrients (such as iron, manganese, and boron).
There’s even evidence that adding compost to your soil can protect plans from disease. Here are some examples of what it can do for your garden.
There are a lot of benefits of parsley to more energy. Grow your own because it is easy. These benefits are due to the high content of vitamins. Parsley is a powerful healing food with unexpected nutrient quality. It is actually a storehouse of nutrients with a delicious green taste.
The leaves contain large quantities of vitamins A, B and C, calcium, iron, manganese, phosphorous and potassium.
Here are the benefits of parsley explained further.
Here is how to eat right by adding parsley to your diet:
Growing parsley is fairly easy. Parsley likes to grow in full sun and rich soil. Make sure lots of well-rotted organic stuff has been dug into the ground before you plant parsley. Parsley grows quickly — pinching back the plant will keep it from growing large and woody.
It is seldom bothered by pests, but sometimes you’ll spot a black-striped, green caterpillar or two chomping on the leaves. Don’t be too quick to destroy these colorful caterpillars, because they are the larvae of beautiful, black butterflies.
I like to plant parsley borders around my asparagus beds. The parsley doesn’t take enough nutrients from the soil to bother the asparagus. Both plants seem to grow better together than they do separately.
Growing parsley in pots is also an option. A healthy parsley plant can survive right through the winter in a sunny kitchen.
Parsley is a bi-annual and in most climates, the plant will over-winter so you should be able to pick fresh parsley on even the coldest of winter days.
As soon as the stems reach 8 or more inches long, start cutting. Cut whole stems as you need them from the outside of the plant. Parsley will freeze quite well. Freeze whole stalks quickly and store in sealable freezer bags or plastic containers.
And don’t forget about many delights of Kohlrabi. This is one of the tastiest veggies on this or any other planet! Try it sauteed in olive oil with tarragon and shallots, or slice it raw and toss it into salad.
Take my word for it: You’ll be an instant kohlrabi convert! Kohlrabi has the mildest and best flavor (resembling mild white turnips) when small. Unfortunately, many gardeners allow kohlrabi to grow too large before harvesting it.
Large, older kohlrabi is tough and woody and it may have an off-flavor…
And, If you don’t care for the taste or texture of kohlrabi, it’s because you’ve only tasted a crop that’s spent too much time growing up. The secret to great-tasting kohlrabi is rocket-fast growth – it should go from sowing to harvest in about 8 weeks.
Like its cabbage-family cousins, kohlrabi prefers cool weather. But unlike those fussbudgets, it will still do its work when the mercury rises. All it asks for is plenty of water to quench its healthy thirst. Kohlrabi doesn’t mind being transplanted, but it grows so fast that there’s no advantage to starting seeds indoors or buying transplants.
Kohlrabi likes a home that gets a lot of sun and has soil that drains well but retains moisture. The pH of its dreams is 6.3 to 6.8.
Of kohlrabi’s two varieties the purple globe is sweeter and tastier than the apple-green. Both have a pale green, almost ivory colored, flesh inside. While the entire vegetable is edible raw or cooked, the small, young kohlrabi, about 1 1/2″ to 2″ in diameter, is ideal for its flavor and texture.My favorite giant-kohlrabi variety is “Superschmelz”. It’s a new variety from Oregon with bulbs that regularly reach 8 to 10 inches in diameter. And (this is the best part) even at that size, they stay sweet and tender.
Young kohlrabi leaves make great eating raw or steamed. I clip them all season long, until it’s time to harvest the stems. I pick the stems when they’re about the size of a golf ball. When they grow bigger than that, they get tough and bitter; all they’re good for then is the compost pile.
If your bulbs are reaching good-eating size faster than you can keep up with them, don’t worry: Just clip them off the stems, bury them deep in the soil, and cover them with hay or straw. They’ll stay crisp and fresh well into winter.
We would like to share with you our harvest of simple & healthy Thanksgiving recipes when you gather your loved ones around the table. These easy-to-follow recipes taste even better than they look. We’ve come a long way since 1621, so let’s celebrate!
I love stuffing perhaps more than any other holiday dish. Which is why I have never thought of it as something that has to be stuffed into anything, especially a meaty thing. Sometimes this confuses people. To them I say: embrace the unstuffed stuffing.
Like pretty much all my recipes, this one is totally flexible; you don’t need to be exact with the quantities, and you can add or subtract ingredients as your tastes dictate.
The quantities below will generally serve about 10 people (exact yield depends on the size of your bread loaves). And,