|
view
cart • checkout
Home > In
the Garden > Eat You Roses
Summer Rose Care Tips
Aahh, mid summer. This is the time of the year when all the annuals
you planted this spring are finally blooming. And the long, warm
days seem to intensify the fragrance of summer blooming Lilies and
roses. It's the time to revel in the glory of the garden.
But, then you notice a few flaws. Uh, oh, that rose plant over
there just doesn't look like it's doing very well. What's the deal?
Mid summer, in all it's glory, can also create stressful conditions
for plants. All that heat causes plants to move water through their
systems (evapotranspiration) pretty quickly. If plants don't have
enough water, they get stressed out in the heat. They can't just
pick themselves up and move into the shade or go get a drink of
water like we can.
As you look a bit closer you notice there are some funny looking
bugs covering the new growth on your roses. Mid summer can bring
out the aphids in full force. Especially, if you haven't had any
recent heavy rains to wash them off the plants.
Then you notice that a rose in the corner has some funny spots
on its leaves, a few leaves are turning yellow, and some have fallen
off the plant. Oh god, blackspot!
And, then you start thinking that perhaps your roses aren't blooming
as much as they should be. If your soil is a bit low on the fertility
scale, the blooms may be in short supply.
What to do, what to do!! First, don't worry. These minor problems
are just that -- minor. And, they're easily fixed.
Water
The most important thing your roses need this time of year is
water. They demand the equivalent of at least one inch of rain each
week. That's about equal to one gallon of water per plant. So, if
it hasn't rained, give your roses some water.
The best way to water your roses is with a soaker hose that causes
the water to slowly saturate the soil. These are usually made out
of recycled tires and can be laid right on top of the soil and covered
with mulch. This works great -- no evaporation and the water slowly
soaks into the soil. I actually run mine overnight. The mulch on
top of the hose prevents any water from squirting onto the roses,
so watering at night is great. Just remember to turn off the hose
in the morning. Or, better yet, set it on a timer.
Water is the ultimate "fertilizer." It moves nutrients from the
soil into the plant. And a consistent supply prevents the rose from
getting stressed by heat. A nonstressed, healthy rose can better
defend itself from insects and disease.
Bugs
 Mid
summer bug problems on roses are usually caused by aphids. They
are almost always found on the new growth of rose plants. They seem
to come out in full force in mid summer when there hasn't been much
rain. Aphids suck the juices out of your roses and can cause leaves
to curl and be disfigured.
The best defense against aphids is healthy plants that have received
adequate amounts of water. The second best defense is a good supply
of ladybugs in your garden. I release these aphid eaters every two
weeks during early summer and mid summer. They really clean up the
aphid problems. Sometimes I have to wait a few days after the release
to see the effects, but they do a great job in reducing aphid problems.
If the rain hasn't come and the ladybugs haven't done their job,
then you need to stop the aphids before they take over. Insectidal
soaps work great -- they don't hurt bees, fish, kids or you. But
they'll kill most soft bodied insects. It works by suffocating them.
The trick to success with insectidal soap is to apply it twice.
First, spray it on the aphids (it has to have contact with the bug
to work) late in the day -- usually right before sunset. Spraying
late in the day prevents leaf damage caused by the sun hitting the
spray or heat reacting with the spray. Then, two days later go out
and spray any aphids that escaped your first spray. You'll be amazed
at how quickly they reproduce! If you miss one, you'll quickly have
hundreds in a matter of days. I think they're born pregnant.
Another quick way to get rid of aphids is to squish them between
your fingers. Or, if you can't handle that, then wash them off the
plant with water -- a hose set on high pressure works well (be careful
not to blast the leaves off your plants).
Disease
 Rose
diseases are what keeps lots of people from growing roses. The idea
of dragging out an arsenal of chemicals and spraying them over the
entire garden once a week is enough to cause even the most undaunted
gardener to wonder what the heck they're doing.
What to do? First, decide what you're willing to accept. Remember
the words to a Joni Mitchell song, "please farmer farmer put away
that DDT, leave the spots on the apples and give me the birds and
the bees." If chemical control is not for you, you can still grow
roses. First, you have to select roses that are less susceptible
to disease and then you have to keep them healthy by planting them
in the right spot and giving them enough water and the right kind
of food.
Right plant in the right place. Every garden
is filled with "microclimates" that can be good for some plants
and certain death for others. You know that corner spot in your
garden that always has mosquitoes and slugs hanging out in the damp
shade? Don't plant a rose there. It will get disease, unless its
made out of plastic. Plant your rose in sun with good air circulation
and it will have what it needs to stay healthy without spraying.
If it gets disease, consider replacing it with a variety that has
more disease resistance.
Organic sprays. If you have a disease problem,
there are organic products you can apply to your plants to prevent
and control the diseases. Before World War II, there were very few
agricultural chemicals used to control plant disease. And guess
what, people were growing roses way before World War II.
Most organic sprays are composed of minerals; specifically, copper
or sulfur. New funigicide products use Neem oil derivatives, made
from the Neem tree. Some of these products are available at local
garden centers. Others are available through mail order only. One
good source for these products is: Gardens Alive, 510 Schenley Place,
Lawrenceburg, IN 47025; 812-537-8650.
Lots of other nonorganic sprays are available for those of you
willing to use them. Check with your local garden center.
To avoid disease problem, remember to: select roses that have
good resistance to disease, plant them in the right spot, and feed
and water them well.
Food
Roses are known as "heavy feeders" (or how about gluttons) when
it comes to using up soil nutrients. But, they convert all those
nutrients into a ton of blossoms, which is why we grow them, right?!
So, if we expect them to bloom, we have to feed them.
We've got lots of pages devoted to fertilizing, which I've listed
below. But, before you leave this page, there are a few pointers
to keep in mind when fertilizing.
- Don't apply liquid fertilizers to dry soils. The roses will
suck up the fertilizer quickly and it may cause the leaves to
burn.
- Avoid using liquid chemical fertilizers -- especially on Rugosas!
These types of fertilizers cause the most leaf burn and leaf drop.
You don't want to hurt your plants with fertilizers.
- Feed the soil, which in turn feeds the plants.
More Info
Remember not to worry too much about your plants. Unless, of course,
you want to. We grow roses for fun and for their beauty. Use some
common sense in taking care of them, and they will reward you with
beautiful blossoms. Don't be too quick to give up on roses, or to
use harsh chemicals when problems arise. Often times, patience and
calm thinking can show you less toxic and less drastic means to
care for your roses. |
