How To Water House Plants

The life of a plant requires proper sunlight, personal care and the right amount of water. Where you position your plant will affect the way it functions, and it might even affect its ability to survive. Some plant lovers have no outside area to store the various kinds of plants that they want to keep on hand and end up making room for their beloved plants inside the residence. Plants that live indoors require a different kind of attention than if they were outside where the rain and sun could get to them. Here are a few things to consider when watering those house plants.

Gardening from Ste Williams on Vimeo.

Choosing the right Time

One of the easiest mistakes to make when it comes to watering a plant is to give it too much or even not enough water to fullfill all judi online requirements. The key to figuring out when to water your house plants will be to evaluate the soil in the pot. Begin by sinking your finger into the soil to feel the texture, if wet or moist soil is apparent, then you will not need to give your plant any water. On the other hand, if your finger returns with dry soil, then get ready to provide your plant with the appropriate amount of water.

Water temperature

Depending on the climate you live in, you may need to consider leaving your water to stand for a few hours until it gets to room temperature. Indoor plants especially will have become adjusted to a more controlled environment. If your water is extreme (hot or cold) it can affect your plant. Consider the kind of plants you have also, as some of them may be much more sensitive to sudden changes in the climate conditions. After your water has been allowed to stand for the appropriate amount of time, proceed to water your plants.

The right way to water

The way you apply water to your plants can also vary from one plant to another. For instance, plants that have a tough exterior and foliage can be watered from the top. Apply your water from the surface, without actually touching the plant itself. Allow the water enough time to soak through until it gets to the bottom. Repeat the process once again until you are satisfied that the plant has adequate water. Certain kinds of plants require watering from below just like agen sbobet in Indonesia. This can be accomplished by placing the appropriate amount of water into a saucer which sits at the bottom of your pot.

The direct approach

We all have our distinct likes and dislikes and for some plants, that thought process would hold true. If you own an urn plant, the watering process will be slightly different. A Bromelaid is considered as an urn plant and should not be watered from below or through the soil on top, in fact, the water should be applied to the plant itself. This plant does not require a lot of water to survive, so pay close attention to the amount of water you apply. Introducing water through conventional methods will simply facilitate the early demise of your plant.

Container Gardening 101! from Annie's Annuals and Perennials on Vimeo.

Kitchen Compost - Your Organic Gardening Blog

Kitchen compost is garden gold when added to the soil. Food scraps contain valuable nutrients that can be used to improve garden soils and place your bets at judi bola in Indonesia. Kitchen composting is one of the easiest ways to clean up the kitchen. All you need to do is to toss some food scraps from salads, vegetables and fruits into your compost pail. I usually add all fruit and vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, filter, paper towels, napkins, oatmeal, banana peels, eggshells and tea bags. You’ll find more items.

What I usually do is to mix a variety of these ingredients up and try to get them moist. As with everything in life, there are exceptions to the rule, including kitchen
compost. Don’t add meat products, bones, fats, grease, oils, or dairy products to compost. They create odors and not the right “organics.” What’s to do next? I bury food waste in empty spots in my vegetable garden.

How? I usually make a hole at least twelve inches deep. Then, add three to four inches of food scraps to the bottom of the hole. Using my shovel I try to chop and mix the wastes into the soil to speed composting. The smaller the chunks, the quicker it composts. Then, I cover food scraps with at least eight inches of soil to prevent rodents and pets from digging them up. Buried food scraps may take from two to six months to decompose depending on soil moisture, temperature, worm population, and food source. In good garden soil, leafy greens will break down in weeks while whole citrus peels may take several months in a loose and fertile garden soil.

Wait a month or more if the soil must be tilled before planting. Then you will see how effective is situs judi online. Annual plants may be planted immediately.

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How To Care For A Begonia?

The Begonia is one of the most beautiful plants used as either an indoor or outdoor source of greenery depending on where in the world the owner lives. Caring for a Begonia begins with making sure it is planted, pruned, fed and watered correctly over the course of its lifetime. To begin the process of understanding how to care properly for a Begonia we must assemble the correct equipment to make sure we can care successfully for the plants, this means fertilizer, a saucer, gravel and water must all be readily available when looking at how best to care for a Begonia.

Once all the necessary equipment has been assembled we must take a look at how healthy the plant is at the current time. One simple to avoid problem with the Begonia is the rotting of organic material still attached to the plant, which is a problem occurring throughout the life of the plant as new stems and material grows. Simply remove the dead or dying leaves at their junction with the main stem of the plant, this means that the entire dead and dying stem is removed to avoid pieces of the plant rotting as the plant continues to grow.

Once the Begonia is cleared of any rotting or damaged organic material it must then be fed to make sure it grows successfully and healthily over the coming months. A good option are fertilizer pellets that offer a time release option, usually for between three and six months. In colder climates, the begonia is usually a house plant and therefore only requires fertilizer for the duration of the summer, which means feeding times should be limited to periods when food is required. Making sure the fertilizer is administered in the correct amount is important, with every package of fertilizer including instructions on how much to feed based on the diameter of the plant pot.

Many people who play poker online become worried by the way they should water a Begonia, with the correct amount of water administered being more than any plant owner may imagine. The root ball of the Begonia should be thoroughly watered, which means almost the entire pot of soil holding the Begonia should be damp when the water is administered. Adding small amounts of water at regular intervals is not always a good idea as only the top layer of soil will then be damp and the root ball will be damaged as it dries out.

Room temperature water should always be used to avoid shocking the plant, with cold water left in a watering can for several hours before administering.

Once the excess water has drained through the pot, the Begonia can be placed on a saucer and the next step in maintaining the plant can begin. Water pressing against the leaves of the Begonia will often cause damage to the plant, which can be avoided by a layer of small stones or gravel being added to the surface of the soil around the plant to provide some form of protection.

When to Start Seeds for the Garden

If you want to get a jump on summer growing, don’t wait until growing season to start your Frost-Leavesseeds. Each year nature plays games with gardeners. Warm weather rolls in, gardeners get Spring fever, and the urge to start vegetables becomes overwhelming. Growers stake out the garden, sprinkle some seeds into rows, water it with love, and in about a week and a half, little sprouts emerge. Just about the time the true leaves open in full splendor, a cold snap hits and frost kills 90% of the garden.

But you know what happens when you wait to plant? Frost never comes. That’s because Jack Frost is hiding behind the tree and snickering at your gardening efforts. He won’t strike until he sees you smiling at your new plants.

That leaves you with two choices. Wait until the temperatures get too hot for Jack to hang around, or allow him to be humored with your gardening agony. But if you wait, then it will be another month or two before the fruits of your labor can be picked from the garden.

Fear not, little gardener. There is a third option. Plant indoors and snicker at Jack. Many seeds can be started up to 8 weeks early and be ready for the garden when Jack Frost heads north for the summer. Just figure out what the latest chance of frost is for your region, and count back 60 days. That’s when you plant your indoor seedlings. I’ll even save you a little time by giving you a handy chart.

USDA Hardiness Zone	Approximate Last Chance for Frost	Date to Start Seeds
Zone 1	6/30	5/1
Zone 2	6/15	4/16
Zone 3	5/31	4/1
Zone 4	5/30	3/31
Zone 5	5/15	3/16
Zone 6	4/30	3/1
Zone 7	4/15	2/14
Zone 8	3/30	1/29
Zone 9	2/28	12/30
Zone 10	1/30	12/1
Zone 11	Frost? What’s that?	Whenever you get the hankering

This chart doesn’t take into account the freak cold snaps that sneak a frost late into spring. Like the oddities found in my area. The official latest frost on record is April 25th, and that happened in 1910. However, they apparently don’t take my property into account when record keeping. I’ve lived at my current location for ten years, and twice I have had frost kill my garden in May. One as late as the third week of May.

Two years ago, I planted my garden on May 1st. Three weeks later, everything was doing nicely, but a cold snap came in. The official temperature was 39 degrees. No big deal. Cold, but plants can survive that temp. But in the pasture behind my house, I saw frost. Sure enough, when I walked to the back of the yard, tiny ice crystals outlined the leaves of all my plants. Two days later, I had nothing but dead plant corpses.

The odd part is that I have two growing areas. The one at the back of the yard was wiped out. The garden to the side of my house was untouched. I could see the frost line in the grass. A mere 50 or 60 feet was the difference between life and death.

So, if you are in a strange area like me, waiting another two weeks after the last possible frost date might be a better option. Worry not, little sprout. When Jack has to head north, you will still get the last laugh when you take your two-month old plants and place them in the garden.

How To Divide Perennials In Your Garden?

If your garden heavily features perennials, or plants that live for two or more years, you might have heard that it is advantageous to periodically divide them. This guide is here to help go over what dividing perennials means, the best reasons to do it, the best time to do it, and of course give some practical advice on how to do it. For those who are curious about what exactly dividing means, it is relatively self explanatory. Dividing perennials means digging and replanting individual species of plants in other parts of your garden or in another garden entirely.

Why Divide Perennials

There are many reasons why dividing is a good a strategy for perennial plants. One reason is overall health: many species of perennials grow in a way that causes clumping. If these clumps don’t go untreated they can actually start to die out and leave unsightly holes in your garden.

Another benefit is that less crowded plants are more likely to bloom bigger prettier flowers.

Finally, for the more aggressive varieties of perennials, dividing can prevent them from encroaching on their neighbors and will keep your garden looking clean and well delineated. Of course, another great side benefit is that dividing will yield extra plants for either expanding your garden or you can even give away or sell your surplus.

When To Divide Perennials

The process of division can be a stressful one for the plants involved, so it is best to try and do big dividing projects in the milder seasons. When the soil is cool and moist, like in the spring or autumn months, your plants will better be able to recover from the shock of being dug up and transplanted. However, it is possible to divide them as agen sbobet member do in other seasons like summer or winter; it is important to make sure they get any extra care they might need like additional water, or extra heat though.

When looking at the plants, you will know they are ready for division when they are big enough that you can make several distinct ‘clumps’ out of them. Most perennials are ready to divide every three to four years, but do some research on the species in your garden to see if you have any that need more or less frequent dividing.

Some species, such as lavender, can actually be left alone altogether.

How To Divide Perennials

Dividing your perennials is predominantly a three step process. Step one is to prepare both the area you are going to dig and transplant to by watering the soil in both places. Step two is to dig up the plants to be divided by selecting a clump and inserting the shovel around the perimeter to carefully isolate the roots and dig underneath them. Now lift underneath the root clump to lever the plant out. Finally, you are going to separate the tops of the clump you’ve uprooted and replant in the new area as quickly as possible so the roots remain moist and healthy.

Benefits Of Parsley To More Energy Grow Your Own

There are a lot of benefits of parsley to more energy. Grow your own because it is easy. These benefits are due to the high content of vitamins. Parsley is a powerful healing food with unexpected nutrient quality. It is actually a storehouse of nutrients with a delicious green taste.

The leaves contain large quantities of vitamins A, B and C, calcium, iron, manganese, phosphorous and potassium.

• Parsley contains three times as much vitamin C as oranges, and twice as much iron as spinach.
• It has almost all the important nutrients like vitamin B12, beta carotene,  fluorine, folic acid, Vitamin K chlorophyll and essential fatty acids.
• Just two tablespoons of parsley provide over 150% of the daily recommended value of vitamin K.

Here are  the benefits of parsley explained further.

• Traces of vitamin B12 in parsley help in maintaining a healthy nervous system and DNA synthesis. Beta carotene prevents aging, night blindness and other eye problems. It also boosts immunity, protects against toxins and cancer formations.
• Folic acid plays significant  role in maintaining good cardiovascular health. It aids proper cell multiplication and maturation. Fluorine and calcium are essential in tooth and bone development. Parsley also prevents tooth decay and bad breath for judi bola online.
• It has been proven scientifically that parsley reduces fever because its leafs contain essential oils. So you should eat parsley especially if you are stuck with a cold. Parsley is known to clear toxins and reduce inflammation in the body.
• Eating parsley on a daily basis is easy. All you have to do is add it in your salads. It has a wonderful flavor and energizes your body on the spot. You can use parsley in any recipe. Better than dried herb, chopped raw, fresh parsley.
• Raw parsley can be used as an effective natural blood cleanser, which can dissolve all possible toxic and cholesterol deposits in our veins, protect us against many serious cardiovascular diseases, as well as strengthen and increase elasticity of our blood vessels.

Here is how to eat right by adding parsley to your diet:

1. Add chopped parsley mixed with lime juice over some cut veggies like chopped bell peppers, baby corn, carrots to make a delicious crunchy salad.
2. Add chopped parsley to tomato or pumpkin soup to make it more zesty and delicious.
3. Use parsley paste with lime, ginger and garlic to marinate fish, chicken, and lamb.
4. Add chopped parsley while making juice of carrot, beetroot and orange. This is a very refreshing vitamin-booster drink.
5. Combine chopped parsley with bulgur wheat, chopped green onions (scallions), mint leaves, lemon juice and olive oil to make the Middle Eastern classic dish, tabouli.
6. Add chopped parsley with cottage cheese and corn while making grilled sandwich.
7. Sprinkle it over any of the salads with your favorite dressing.
8. Mix some chopped parsley with butter or olive oil and spread on toasted crusty bread.
9. Add to homemade pesto sauce and herby sauces.
10. Consume fresh parsley juice as a healthy herbal drink.

Growing parsley is fairly easy. Parsley likes to grow in full sun and rich soil. Make sure lots of well-rotted organic stuff has been dug into the ground before you plant parsley. Parsley grows quickly — pinching back the plant will keep it from growing large and woody.

It is seldom bothered by pests, but sometimes you’ll spot a black-striped, green caterpillar or two chomping on the leaves. Don’t be too quick to destroy these colorful caterpillars, because they are the larvae of beautiful, black butterflies.

I like to plant parsley borders around my asparagus beds. The parsley doesn’t take enough nutrients from the soil to bother the asparagus. Both plants seem to grow better together than they do separately.

Growing parsley in pots is also an option. A healthy parsley plant can survive right through the winter in a sunny kitchen.
Parsley is a bi-annual and in most climates, the plant will over-winter so you should be able to pick fresh parsley on even the coldest of winter days.

As soon as the stems reach 8 or more inches long, start cutting. Cut whole stems as you need them from the outside of the plant. Parsley will freeze quite well. Freeze whole stalks quickly and store in sealable freezer bags or plastic containers.

And Don’t Forget About Kohlrabi

And don’t forget about many delights of Kohlrabi. This is one of the tastiest veggies on this or any other planet! Try it sauteed in olive oil with tarragon and shallots, or slice it raw and toss it into salad.

Take my word for it: You’ll be an instant kohlrabi convert! Kohlrabi has the mildest and best flavor (resembling mild white turnips) when small. Unfortunately, many gardeners allow kohlrabi to grow too large before harvesting it.

Large, older kohlrabi is tough and woody and it may have an off-flavor…

And, If you or agen bola don’t care for the taste or texture of kohlrabi, it’s because you’ve only tasted a crop that’s spent too much time growing up. The secret to great-tasting kohlrabi is rocket-fast growth – it should go from sowing to harvest in about 8 weeks.

Like its cabbage-family cousins, kohlrabi prefers cool weather. But unlike those fussbudgets, it will still do its work when the mercury rises. All it asks for is plenty of water to quench its healthy thirst. Kohlrabi doesn’t mind being transplanted, but it grows so fast that there’s no advantage to starting seeds indoors or buying transplants.

Kohlrabi likes a home that gets a lot of sun and has soil that drains well but retains moisture. The pH of its dreams is 6.3 to 6.8.

Of kohlrabi’s two varieties the purple globe is sweeter and tastier than the apple-green. Both have a pale green, almost ivory colored, flesh inside. While the entire vegetable is edible raw or cooked, the small, young kohlrabi, about 1 1/2″ to 2″ in diameter, is ideal for its flavor and texture.My favorite giant-kohlrabi variety is “Superschmelz”. It’s a new variety from Oregon with bulbs that regularly reach 8 to 10 inches in diameter. And (this is the best part) even at that size, they stay sweet and tender.

Young kohlrabi leaves make great eating raw or steamed. I clip them all season long, until it’s time to harvest the stems. I pick the stems when they’re about the size of a golf ball. When they grow bigger than that, they get tough and bitter; all they’re good for then is the compost pile.

If your bulbs are reaching good-eating size faster than you can keep up with them, don’t worry: Just clip them off the stems, bury them deep in the soil, and cover them with hay or straw. They’ll stay crisp and fresh well into winter.